Chai Infinity and Beyond…

For the past three days I have taken a one hour bus ride through the Dhauladhar Mountain Range to the fields with Sarita. Once we arrived at our bus stop, we walked 3 kilometers to the rural villages where we began knocking upon doors looking for villagers to answer our survey. Every villager warmly greeted us. They offered us a chair as well as a cup of chai tea. Unable to refuse a cup of tea, given that the villagers keenly persisted, I went home every evening with a soar belly. I accidentally complimented a family for having a large buffalo which sat in the mud in front of their hut. Shortly after my compliment, the daughter-in-law of the house brought me a cup of warm buffalo milk on a tray. I peered down into my cup and acknowledged the black floaties and tiny hairs drifting in my milk. I reminded myself that this family was below poverty line, and drank the contaminated milk like a champ – it’s been 48 hours since I drank the cup of milk and I’m still living and going strong!

Over half of the villagers we have surveyed have been below poverty line, yet they have been the most generous people I have ever met. Most houses offer lunch/snacks albeit minimum wage in Himachal Pradesh is 100 rupees (2.50$) per day and old age pension is only 400 rupees (10$) per month. The majority of villagers defecate outside, therefore, I am continual dodging their poop (as well as the poop that belongs to stray dogs, cats, cows, sheep, and goats). Children pop a squat anywhere, while grownups go in the fields or behind their homes.

Villagers have kindly offered for me to stay the night and one family even offered their toddler. As cute as she was, with pigtails, dirty cheeks, and a torn pink dress, I had to refuse. Another beautiful child that I encountered, unfortunately had jet black teeth. Concerned, I asked Sarita what was wrong with the 6 year old's teeth. Sarita meekly replied, “Bacteria”. “Oh gosh”, I replied. “Sarita, I hope you take your children to the dentist”. Sarita replied, “What’s the dentist?”…

TVs, but no toilets…

Finally my time has come and I have started working in the fields. From 9a.m.-5p.m. Sarita, a CORD grass root worker, and I go to villages in the Massal panchayat to survey sanitation. In 2002 it was estimated that 2.6 billion people in the world live without proper sanitation facilities, representing close to 50% of the world’s population. By 2015, that number should be reduced to 1.8 billion if the Millennium Development Goals (MDG) and sanitation target are met. In India, major initiatives have been taken for inducing reforms in the Water Supply and Sanitation Sector for ensuring sustainable improved service delivery to the un-served and underserved sections of the society.
In the past, the Indian government has given money to villagers to build toilets. Results showed that these toilets were being built; however, they were not being used. For centuries, Indians have been defecating and urinating outside and they do not recognize the importance of using a toilet. For that reason, CORD/NGOs have focused their attention on stressing its importance, behavioral change, as well as introducing latrines at a lower cost. Indian statistics show that 80% of the diseases in rural areas are spread on account of open defecation – therefore, it is a must that I do my best to spread the significance of toilet construction/usage. So far in the two villages Sarita and I surveyed, only 2% of the homes had toilets, even though 98% of the homes had televisions… Go figure… :0P

Special Olympics for the Differently Abled

Opportunely, the organization I am volunteering for, the Chinmaya Organization of Rural Development, hosted the Special Olympics for the state of Himachal Pradesh. The main event was Bocce. Bocce is… And for those of you who are unaware, the Special Olympics is the brainchild of John F. Kennedy Jr. The mission of the Special Olympics is to provide year-round sports training and athletic competition in a variety of Olympic-type sports for children and adults with intellectual disabilities, by giving them continuing opportunities to develop physical fitness, demonstrate courage, experience joy and participate in sharing of gifts, skills and friendship with families, other Special Olympic athletes and the community.For three exceptional days the Special Olympic athletes, varying from the ages of 6-26 years old, slept and ate at CORD. For the sporting event we left CORD to go to Dharmashala where the athletes played Bocce on a large playing field. The Special Olympic athletes varied in athletic and intellectual abilities; however, they each had the ability to win my heart. I never knew that I had the capability or the desire to work with the differently abled till now… I truly needed to be immersed in their world and wonderfulness to fully appreciate working with them. When it was time for the athletes to go, one boy approached me and touched my feet (a sign of respect) and another girl wrapped her arms around me and held my hand. Both athletes confirmed that I was their “didi” (sister) and that I had to see them again. One wheelchair bound boy, took a colorful threaded bracelet off his wrist and wrapped it around mine and said, “Now, we’re friends”. He smiled vibrantly, while my heart liquefied onto the floor.

To anyone who is reading this, I recommend to you that you volunteer for the Special Olympics when it is next in your community. I assure you it will be one of the most inspirational days of your life – and will melt away any of the adversities you may think you have. Special Olympians face so many hardships in their day to day lives, yet they still have the capacity to smile and spread their love. If what I am saying to you still is not enough to motivate you to attend the next Special Olympics event, seeing the smiles upon their faces once a medal has been draped around their neck WILL BE.

Who let the dogs out?

It was a dark and windy night when Minal herd footsteps on our roof. She ran into my bedroom with Sejuti in hand when she cried, “There’s a man on our roof! And I heard him say ‘Hut, hut, hut…’” “Shhh…” I exclaimed, “I want to listen too… Quick! Turn off all the lights so he can’t see in our windows. Let’s quietly sit in the middle of the room and pay close attention to the noises on our roof. I want to confirm what you herd…” While sitting in silence, we heard dozens of loud footsteps as well as a man whispering, “Hut, hut, hut…” Goosebumps coated my body as I felt a feeling of terror. Sejuti shrieked and I reminded her to stay calm. “Okay Minal… Why don’t you call Cusum, she can ask the watchman to circulate the house to see who is outside.” Minal called Cusum. Cusum assured us that she was going to immediately send the watchman to the house. While anticipating the watchman’s arrival, I revised self defense techniques in my mind, just in case we were going to be attacked. Shortly after, Minal heard her phone ring and answered Cusum’s call. While trying to hold back from laughter, Cusum explained that the footsteps we heard on our roof were dogs and it was the watchman saying, “Hut, hut, hut” trying to persuade the dogs to jump off. At that very moment, I went outside to find 7 large stray dogs peering down at me from the roof. The watchman climbed onto our roof and began hitting his large baton onto the ground. The dogs growled and snapped while the watchman shouted. Within a jiffy, the 7 dogs leaped off our roof… With relief, Minal, Sejuti, and I looked at each other and began laughing. “Who let the dogs out? Woof… Woof… Woof… Woof…”

A Foreigner among Foreigners…

Ever since arriving to Sidhbari I have been admiring Dharmshala and McLeod Ganj from afar. From Sidhbari I can see Dharmashala and McLeod Ganj nestled in the foothills of the western Himalayas. When the Chinese occupation of Tibet erupted into violence in 1959, His Holiness the 14th Dalai Lama and his government were forced to flee their country. Opportunely, the Indian government offered them a new home in Dharamshala/McLeod Ganj, an abandoned colonial hill station. There, the Tibetans rebuilt their government and culture-in-exile. McLeod Ganj offers a unique opportunity to experience the vibrant Tibetan culture firsthand without the persecution and difficulties of Tibet, itself.

Both cities are approximately 10 kilometers from Sidhbari; however, because of strict rules and close watch I was not allowed to leave the CORD premises. Though today my luck changed and I was given approval to visit Dharamshala/McLeod Ganj. Fortunately, my “Sasuma” (strict mother-in-law, that’s what we call her) authorized my escapade, even though she looked at me with a puckered brow and asked me why I wanted to go there? :0)

While driving down the unpaved roads to McLeod Ganj dust flew in through the bus windows. Soot settled into my lungs and dirt fell onto my clothes and hair. I hung onto the bars of the bus while standing and envied those who occupied a seat. I admired the men holding onto the outside of the bus and prayed that they didn’t loosen their grip. As soon as I arrived to McLeod Ganj I began admiring its peaceful and energizing vibe. After a short hike, I arrived in Bhagsu, a popular local site with a waterfall, Bhagsunag Falls. Near the waterfall, monks frequented the retreat caves where they meditated. From Bhagsu, I hiked to Dharamkot. Coffee shops, markets, international restaurants, and Israeli tourists occupied the small village. I was the only English speaking human being from the Americas in sight!

In McLeod Ganj, I walked the markets and visited Tsuglag Khang, the Dalai Lama’s residents and monastery. I turned the prayers wheels and prayed to Buddha. In the hallways the monks raised their voices and clapped, practicing their debating skills amongst each other.

Eat, Pray, and my Love is at home…

EAT: I’ve been at CORD for only a week now. Unsurprisingly, I’ve befriended the cooks. Foodie friends/family, admit it you would have done the same :0). Upon entering the cafeteria, I am greeted by each cook with a smile. I think the cooks like me because I never turn down seconds or it may be because I keep them in business? I’m not sure… But the cooks seem to like me and I seem to like the food. After my 6 months internship in rural India I was hoping to come back to Canada as thin as Kate Moss; however, at the rate I’m going I may come back looking like Rosie O’Donald.

PRAY: Every morning I wake up at 5:30a.m. to attend 6a.m. “Arti” (prayer). Prayer is held in a small marble room at the Tapovan Ashram under the Himalayas. I couldn’t have even imagined a better place to be close to God. Lately, I’ve been asking for strength (because not everything has gone smoothly these past few days) and I've been thanking him for my surroundings and my new experiences (even the negative ones!).

LOVE: Dear James, I just want to thank you for being you. You have been extremely supportive these past few days. What would I have done without you? Your kindness and support is a continual reminder why I love you SOOO much. My love for you grows each and everyday... I miss you terribly… I look forward to seeing you next - perhaps in the Himalayas?! Also, may I advise you that your Hugo Boss atire not be appropriate for rural Sidhbari :0).

My New Backyard...

Luckily, CORD has rented a small house for Minal, Sejuti, and I for the duration of our stay. The house is composed of three separate bedrooms, a kitchen (with no appliances), three bucket showers, two Turkish toilets, and one western toilet (THANK GOD). The house is located 300 meters from the CORD office. We have been eating all of our meals at CORD’s small cafeteria. The vegetarian meals have been great (lots of veggies, rice, roties, and momos (Tibetan dumplings)). We’ve been spending our days orienting ourselves at CORD and their programs. On the 9th of September we will begin trekking to rural villages assessing their needs and implementing sanitation (i.e. toilets). I can’t wait!

During the evenings, Minal, Sejuti, and I tramp through the rice paddy fields, creeks, and hand made bridges to the nearby town, Yol. Yol is 3 kilometers from Sidhbari. It’s a beautiful walk – the Himalayas are the backdrop. The mountains take my breath away and I dream that one day soon I will be standing atop one of them.

Om Sweet Home

The first words that exited my lips once my feet touched New Delhi’s ground were “Home Sweet Home”. Even though the stenches were appalling and the stares were irritating I was thrilled to be back in India. Cows and stray dogs lingered in the congested streets, drivers followed their own rules, and limbless beggars knocked on the car windows. My first evening was spent at Vandana’s house. The following day we went to the mall, I found it surprising to find such shops as “Aldo”, “Body Shop”, “Tommy Hilfiger”, and “Pizza Hut”. I almost forgot that I was in India, till Minal, Sejuti, and I were dropped off at New Delhi’s Bus Terminal. Thousands of people swarmed us. Coolies (Porters) ran towards us offering to carry our bags for a certain price. We agreed since we couldn’t manage 9 suitcases with only 3 sets of hands. The two coolies wrapped their scarves around their heads, and placed our suitcases on their heads. We tried to explain that the suitcases had wheels; however, they refused to assimilate and instead balanced 2-3 50 pound suitcases (totaling 100+ pounds). While walking past a low ceiling, the coolie dropped the bags on dirty Delhi’s ground, I sighed in relief. Fortunately, there was no fine crystal or delicate china in my bags.


Minal, Sejuti, and I tapped our feet in the dust for two hour waiting for our “luxury – AC bus”. When the bus pulled in I’m pretty sure the words that exited my lips were, “Oh my God”, and then again it could have been “You have to be kidding me”. For the duration of the 12 hour bus ride to Dharmashala, I admired India’s countryside through the bus’ cracked windows. AC fluid dripped on my lap and I hovered my head over the oily cracked head rest. We stopped twice to pee, but the rest spots did not have adequate washrooms. We peed while squatting and prayed that the stray dogs weren’t going to nip our bare butts. As time progressed the roads got more mountainous. Butterflies filled my stomach while driving on the cliff’s edge with no guardrails. Nothing could have prevented us from dropping hundreds of feet down. Fortunately, our first view of the Himalayas and Dharmashala made our 3 day journey worthwhile. For the next 6 months I will staying the rural village Sidhbari - it's backdrop the himalayas. Welcome to my new backyard…